FREE Crochet Pattern: Simple Summer Arrows T-shirt

Summer’s in full-swing, which means lots of lazy days spent soaking up the sun – yay!  If the weather’s less-than-perfect, though (or if you just like to keep your hands busy while you absorb the rays), why not pick up your hook and try out my latest project, this Simple Summer Arrows T-shirt?

The pattern repeat is made up of two very simple stitches: the chain and the double crochet – making it great for beginners and seasoned crocheters alike, and super-easy to customise. Follow the pattern, below, to make yours!


HERE’S WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE THIS PROJECT:
  • 5mm & 5.5mm crochet hooks
  • DK bamboo yarn in your chosen colour – I used approx. 450yds of Sirdar Baby Bamboo in Warm Grey for size XS, incl. fringe
  • stitch markers
  • measuring tape
  • darning needle for weaving ends
  • sharp scissors
ABBREVIATIONS:

ch – chain
sp – space
st – stitch
sk – skip
yo – yarn over
dc – double crochet
rep (**) – repeat (instructions between asterisks)

GAUGE:

8 sts x 4 rows = 2in square in pattern

PATTERN NOTES:

Pattern written in US terms; worked from bottom up, and constructed of 2 rectangular pieces seamed together.  Beginning ch of each round counts as first st unless otherwise noted.

Sizes written as follows: XS (S, M, L).*
Final garment measurements:
– XS: W: 18in, L: 20in**
– S: W: 20in, L: 20in**
– M: W: 22in, L: 20in**
– L: W: 24in, L: 20in**

*For sizes larger than L, work pattern in multiples of 8sts per size increase.

**Length can be customised by adding/removing rows before beginning triangle motif.


TO MAKE THE FRONT PANEL:

Row 1: With 5.5mm hook, ch84 (92, 100, 108, 116).  With 5mm hook, dc in 4th ch from hook (first 3ch count as first dc), ch2, sk2. *dc in next 2sts, ch2, sk2*. Rep ** to end, finishing with 2dc – 82 (90, 98, 106, 114)

Row 2: ch4, (counts as ch2 sp), 2dc in next ch2 sp, ch2. *2dc in next ch2 sp, ch2*. Rep ** to end, finishing with ch1 and dc in top of turning ch3 (counts as ch2 sp). – 82 (90, 98, 106, 114)

Row 3: ch3, dc in chsp, ch2. *2dc in next ch2 sp, ch2*. Rep ** to end, finishing with 2dc in ch2 sp. – 82 (90, 98, 106, 114)

Rows 4-11: Rep rows 2-3 – 82 (90, 98, 106, 114)

At row no.11, count inwards from both sides until you reach the middle ‘block’ of 2dc, (number of stitches will vary depending on the size you’re working up – my example, below, shows size XS) and place marker.

Row 12: Continue in pattern until you reach the chsp before the marked 2dc group in the previous row. 2dc in chsp, dc in each of next 2 sts, 2dc in next chsp. *ch2, 2dc in next ch2 sp*. Rep ** to end, finishing with ch1 and dc in top of turning ch3. – 82 (90, 98, 106, 114)

Rows 13-23: Continue in pattern, adding one extra group of 2dc either side of the centre for each row, to form a triangle. If necessary, you can use the chart below for reference (based on size XS-S). – 82 (90, 98, 106, 114)

Row 24: ch4, (counts as ch2 sp), 2dc in next ch2 sp, ch2. *2dc in next ch2 sp, ch2*. Rep ** to end, finishing with ch1 and dc in top of turning ch3. – 82 (90, 98, 106, 114)

Rows 25-37: Rep rows 11-23, referring to chart if needed. – 82 (90, 98, 106, 114)

Row 38: ch3, dc in next st, 2dc in ch2 sp. *dc in next 2sts, 2dc in ch2 sp*. Rep ** until you reach the beginning of the base of the triangle in the previous row. dc in each dc of base of triangle. *dc in next 2sts, 2dc in ch2 sp*. Rep ** to end, finishing with dc in top of ch3. – 82 (90, 98, 106, 114)

Rows 39-45: ch3, dc in each st to end. – 82 (90, 98, 106, 114)

Fasten off and weave in ends.


TO MAKE THE BACK PANEL:

Row 1: With 5.5mm hook, ch84 (92, 100, 108, 116).  With 5mm hook, dc in 4th ch from hook (first 3ch count as first dc), ch2, sk2. *dc in next 2sts, ch2, sk2*. Rep ** to end, finishing with 2dc – 82 (90, 98, 106, 114)

Row 2: ch4, (counts as ch2 sp), 2dc in next ch2 sp, ch2. *2dc in next ch2 sp, ch2*. Rep ** to end, finishing with ch1 and dc in top of turning ch3. – 82 (90, 98, 106, 114)

Row 3: ch3, dc in chsp, ch2. *2dc in next ch2 sp, ch2*. Rep ** to end, finishing with 2dc in ch2 sp. – 82 (90, 98, 106, 114)

Rows 4-37: Rep rows 2-3 – 82 (90, 98, 106, 114)

Row 38:  ch3, dc in next st, 2dc in ch2 sp. *dc in next 2sts, 2dc in ch2 sp*. Rep ** to end, finishing with dc in top of ch3. – 82 (90, 98, 106, 114)

Rows 39-45: ch3, dc in each st to end. – 82 (90, 98, 106, 114)


TO MAKE AND ADD THE FRINGE (OPTIONAL):

The placement/length/inclusion of fringe is entirely up to you, but here’s how I worked mine:

Step 1: Cut 41 strands of yarn twice as long as you want your final fringe to be (mine’s roughly 8.5in) – you can do this by wrapping the yarn around a book/tablet/piece of cardboard the correct size 41 times – leaving a small allowance for trimming the ends.

Step 2: Take a strand of yarn and fold it in half. Hook the strand around your crochet hook, and, working from the back of your work to the front, insert your hook between the two bars/’v’ at the bottom of the first dc in the farthest right corner of the base of the top triangle, pulling the loop – but not the entire strand – of yarn through. Yo and pull through completely to secure.  Repeat with the next dc to the left, so you’re left with 2 strands of fringe on this row (see below, fig.1).  Moving down a row, insert your hook from back to front between the two ‘v’s of the next group of 2dc at the edge of the triangle (see below, fig.2). Pull fringe through and secure.  Working down the edge of the triangle, place 2 strands on the next row, then 1 strand of fringe on the following row, until you reach the tip of the triangle, which should have one strand.

Step 3: Repeat step 2, working up along the opposite edge of the triangle, and finishing with 2 strands of fringe at the very top corner.

Step 4: Lastly, with sharp scissors, trim and style your fringe.


AND FINALLY, TO ASSEMBLE YOUR TOP:

These measurements are guidelines; I’d recommend trying your top on with markers placed to make sure you’re happy with how it fits first, before seaming it up.

Step 1: Take both panels, hold them wrong sides together, and measure 7in down from the top right hand corner.  Place marker through both panels – this will become your first armhole.  Next, from the same top right corner, measure 4in inwards, and place another marker for the shoulder seam.  Lastly, from the bottom right corner, measure 4in up, and place another marker, to create a side vent.

Step 2: Repeat step 1 on the left side of the front panel, so you have 6 markers placed in total.

Step 3: Turn your t-shirt inside out and, with your tapestry needle and a length of yarn, seam up your top between the markers using the mattress stitch (refer to the diagram below for clarification, if you need it).

That’s all there is to it!  Now, throw on your top and head to the nearest beach while the sun’s still shining!

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